Taiwan
08/16/2010 – 8/30/2010 – Guiding a rock climbing and cultural experience trip at Long Dong, Taiwan （å°ç£é¾æ´žï¼‰
Squamish BC Canada
08/02/2010 – 08/07/2010 – Guiding a rock climbing trip for BOLD Mountain School
Mt Erie, Washington
07/27/2010 – 07/29/2010 – Guiding a rock climbing trip for Passages Northwest
Pacific Northwest
06/01/2010 – Index (Libra’s Crack); 06/03/2010 – Vantage (Sunshine wall); 06/07/2010 – Leavenworth (hobo gulch); 06/08/2010 – Index (Roger’s Corner & Princely Ambitions); 06/18/2010 – Index (Godzilla, Quarry’s Crack, p1 of Japanese Garden, Roger’s Corner, Breakfast of Champions); 06/19/2010 – Leavenworth (J Y Crag)
07/22/2010 – 07/25/2010 – Squamish (Jungle Warfare 5.10a @ the Squaw, Hairpin 5.10a @ the Papoose, and some cragging)
City of Rocks, Idaho – instructing a 8-day climbing camp from 5/21-28 for Bush School based in Seattle
Smith Rocks, Oregon – instructing a 6-day climbing camp from 5/09-14 for Bush School based in Seattle
Leavenworth Washington
date: 05/06/10, area: Duty Dome, Off Duty Area
routes: Off Duty area
The Slap 5.9; Off Duty 5.10A; Peckin Time 5.7 as p1 then A Shade of Jade 5.10D as p2; Aquamarine 5.9, 5.10A; Straight Street 5.9, 5.8; Heart of Gold 5.8, 5.6, 5.10A, 5.10A
French Coulee (Vantage), Washington – instructing a 4-day climbing camp from 4/29 – 5/2 for Passages/BOLD joint program
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Time: April 2010
Routes climbed:
bushwhack crack (5.8, led); beckey’s wall (5.7, led); satan’s corner (5.8, led); gordon’s hangover (5.9+, followed); wheels on fire (5.9, followed); mexican crack (5.10a, followed); the coffin (5.9; followed); the viewing (5.10a, TR)
Moab Utah & Independence Monument Colorado
Time: late March, 2010.
Routes climbed (led every pitch):
1. Stolen Chinmey route of Corkscrew Summit of Ancient Art
2. Otto’s route of Independence Monument
3. North Chimney route of Castleton Tower
4. Cragging one day @ Ice Cream Parlor
Photos by David E Anderson: http://gallery.me.com/kondus#100527
Cochise Arizona
first 4 pitches of Ewephoria and finished on Too Tough to Die
Joshua Tree National Park, California
instructed a rock climbing course from 2/4-12 for Bush School Seattle
China
climbed some sport crags at Yangshuo, Fumin, Dali, and, Nanning China
Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
| 10/25/09 | Armatron p1-p4 (led p2&p4), Rapped down and did the arete pitch of Requiem for a Tadpole |
| 10/26/09 | A Cold Day in September |
| 10/31/09 | Black Orpheus (swapped leads, led the 5.9 and Salz led the 5.10a) |
| 11/01/09 | Community Pillar (swapped leads) |
| 11/03/09 | Dream of Wild Turkeys (swapped leads) |
| 11/05/09 | Epinephrine (swapped leads and led the MONEY pitch!!) |
Joshua Tree, California (if not noted otherwise, the route is led onsight)
| 10/14/09 | Headstone Rock: SW Corner (5.6); Cryptic (5.8); Saddle Rocks Area: Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+; 2 pitches) |
| 10/15/09 | The Old Woman: Dandelion (5.10a, “take” 2-3 times); Toe Jam (5.7); Chimney Rock: The Flue (5.8); Some bolted line between Flue Right & Raven’s Reach (TR, aided one move) |
| 10/16/09 | Hidden Tower: Wild Wind (5.9; TR); Sail Away (5.8-); Hemingway Buttress: White Lightning (5.7); Poodles Are People Too (5.10b; TR, shipped off 2-3 times); Dung Fu (5.7) |
| 10/17/09 | Lost Horse Area: Double Dogleg (5.7); Beck’s Bet (5.8); Euthyphro (5.9; TR); Split Personality (5.9; first attempt of JTree 5.9; “take” once after the traverse); Rock Candy (5.9; TR); Spitwad (5.10a; not as hard as the grade describes?) |
| 10/19/09 | Indian Cove Area: Driving Limitations (5.8); We Dive at Dawn (5.8); Ancient Kingdom: climbed something random which doesn’t seem to be on the guidebook |
| 10/20/09 | Old Woman: Double Cross (5.7+); Hands Off (5.8); Pope’s Crack (5.9; first onsight 5.9 at JTree); Stichter Quits (5.7; followed) |
| 10/21/09 | Echo Rock Area: Flake and Bake (5.8; pink-pointed); Touch and Go (5.9; on lead fell once; TR clean); Split Rocks Area: Invisibility Lessons (5.9; 2nd onsight 5.9 at JTree); Continuum (5.8+) |
House Range, Utah
worked as an instructor for a NOLS rock climbing camp (one section of a semester course) from 09/16/09 ~ 10/08/09
Grand Teton, Wyoming
Guided two people up the top of Grand Teton thru Owen-Spaulding Route, summit day: 09/06/09
Mazama Washington Area
| 09/01/09 | Cragging Day at Mazama |
| 09/02/09 | Liberty Bell thru the Becky Route (5.6) |
Squamish BC Canada
| 08/28/09 | Cragging Day. Routes climbed include Mosquito and a couple other cracks |
| 08/29/09 | Calculus Crack and another TR |
| 08/30/09 | Rock On (led p1&p3; 5.8 and 5.9 respectively |
Index Washington (6/16/09, 07/02/09, & 8/24/09) Routes climbed: EM, Rattle’s Tale, Toxic Shock, Roger’s Corner, Breakfast of Champion etc.
Squamish BC Canada (7/07/09 ~ 07/19/09: instructing a 13-day rock climbing course for BOLD Mountain School)
Smith Rocks, Oregon (6/22/09 ~ 06/28/09: instructing a week-long rock climbing course for Passages Northwest)
Leavenworth Washington
| 05/15/09 | Castle Rock: Midway (5.5; led p1); Saber (5.5; led p1 & later p2 after p1 of Canary); Canary Pitch One (led; fell) |
| 05/16/09 | Fish Wall @ Duty Dome: Crab Cakes (5.8+; led & lap); Virgin Sturgeon (5.8+; led & lap); Sardine Routine (5.9; led & lap); Keen Acres: Kilt Twister (5.8; led); Keen Acres (5.9+; led and TR); Animal Farm (5.8; led) |
| 05/17/09 | Pearly Gates: No Room for Squares (5.8; led & lap); Lost Souls (5.9; attempted leading twice, fell; TR once); Cloud Nine (5.9+; led with undercling start; lap); Easy Pickins (5.10a; TR; difficult) |
| 05/18/09 | Castle Rock: Canary (attempted p1; led p3) |
Smith Rocks, Oregon (5/02/09 ~ 05/08/09: instructing a week-long rock climbing course for Bush School, a private school based in Seattle)
Red Rocks, Nevada
| 04/23/09 | Fun and Games (5.8; 180 feet; led) |
| 04/24/09 | Hot Flash (5.8; 1280 feet; swap leads) |
| 04/25/09 | Purblind Pillar (5.8; 950 feet; swap leads) |
| 04/26/09 | Ginger Cracks (5.9; 930 feet; led) |
| 04/27/09 | Valentines Day (5.8+; led); Muckraker (5.8; led); Fleet Street (5.8; TR) |
| 04/29/09 | Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+; 940 feet; led; went off route p3 & p4 came back on route at the start of p5) |
| 04/30/09 | Healy’s Haunted House (5.8; 645 feet; led) |
Yosemite Valley
| 03/19/09 | Manure Pile Buttress: C.S. Concerto (led the 5.8 pitch); Just Do-do It (top-roped) |
| 03/20/09 | The Surprise (5.10a): led p2, p3 (5.8), p5 |
Cochise Stronghold, Arizona
| 02/09/09 ~ 02/19/09 | NOLS Rock Climbing Seminar which covers institutional climbing teaching discipline and philosophy, top-rope site management, guiding multi-pitch climbs, self rescues etc. |
Yangshuo (陽朔) China (unless noted otherwise, it’s a led sport route)
| 11/20/08 | BabyFrog Buttress èŒèšªå±±: Frogmarch (4+;5.8); Liar (5;5.9); Fruit Flavoured Frogs (4+;5.8); Toad in the Hole (5;5.9); Rolling Stone (5+;5.10a) |
| 11/22/08 | Thumb Peak 拇指峰: Happy New Year (5.10b) – sport multi-pitch – led p2 (5.8), p5 (5.10b) |
| 11/24/08 | The Egg 雞蛋山: Chocolate Milk Crack (5.9); Cover Boy Meets Mr. Hilti (5.9); The Deviant Direct (3-pitch; 5.9; swap leads); Absent Friends (5.9); Alice in Wonderland (5.7/5.8) |
| 11/25/08 | Banyan Tree 大榕樹: Lounging Lizards (5.8); Beautiful Day (5.10a/b); Happy Hour (5.10b; top-roped); Bamboo Grove 竹林岩: Pickpocket (5.9+); Red River (5.8) |
| 11/26/08 | Wine Bottle 酒瓶山: Tianjin Special (5.8); Selfish (5.9); Shu Ba Jie (5.10a); The Miracle of Lankou (5.9, 26m); Summit No. 1 (5.9, 21m); Watered Whine (5.8); Irresistible (5.8); Pitch one of The Red Wall (5.10a, followed); Pitch two of an unnamed route (5.9+) |
| 11/27/08 | Twin Gate Mountain åŒé–€å±±: Penthouse Platforms (3-pitches – 5.10a. 5.8, 5.8; led and linked p2, p3); Da Pi Gu (5.9); Pitch one of Kin Jiang Black (5.10b, top-roped) |
| 11/29/08 | Low Mountain 矮山: L’Echo des Montagnes (5 pitches, 5.8; swap leads); Pitch one of The Monkey King (5.10a); Flake Out (6a+; 5.10c); The Pig Emperor (6b+; 5.11a; try to top-rope it but gave up); Lazy Days (5.9) |
| 12/01/08 | The Egg: Straw Noise Sheep Ernie (5.10b); All the King’s Horses (5.9, 27m); Rooster Booster (5.10a, 31m) |
| 12/02/08 | Treasure Cave 穿岩è—æ´ž: Adventure Race Groupies (5.9); Where’s My Tyrolean? (5+; 5.9+); Unnamed (6b?; 5.10+?; top-roped); Losing Face (6a; 5.10b); Sai Yan / Seyon (5+;5.10a, 25m) |
| 12/03/08 | Space Buttress 太空站: Aliens in Yangshuo (5;5.9); Klingon (6a; 5.10b, 25m); Dark Star (2 pitches, 5.10a & 5.10b, led and linked 2 pitches, ~ 40m); The Milky Way (5; 5.9) |
| 12/05/08 | Wine Bottle: The Helsinki Handsaw Massacre (6a+; 5.10c; top-roped); Slack (6a; 5.10b); Where’s the Jug? (6b+; 5.11a; top-roped twice) |
| 12/07/08 | BabyFrog Buttress: ShaZi (6a+; 5.10c); Frogs Traverse (6a; 5.10c); Kermit (6a; 5.10a/b) |
| 12/08/08 | White Mountain 白山: The Stone Dog (5.10c; top-roped); Face Route (6b+; 5.11a; top-roped); The Comedians (6a+; 5.10c; top-roped) |
| 12/10/08 | The Screaming Mountain Turtle: The Screaming Mountain Turtle (5 pitches, 5.9; swap leads); Butterfly Spring è´è¶æ³‰: name? (5.9) |
| 12/11/08 | Brave New World 新世界: The Witch Woman of the Rock (5 pitches, 5.10c; led p2 (5.10b, first onsight trad lead at this grade), attempted p5 (5.10c) but bailed on a threaded sling |
| 12/13/08 | The Egg: Crispy (5.9); Straw Noise Sheep Ernie (5.10b; top-roped); Pitch one of Eggstatic (5.11a; top-roped); Duck (6c; 5.11b; top-roped); Sha Bi Ab Bi (5+; 5.10a; top-roped) |
Mount Washington Valley, New Hampshire
| 10/14/08 | Cathedral Ledge: Thin Air (5.6); Standard Route with Toe Crack (5.7) var and an airy 5.4 traverse – swap leads; Pine Tree Element (5.8) – led |
| 10/15/08 | Whitehorse Ledge: Sliding Board (5.7R) – swap leads; (led the crux pitch) |
| 10/17/08 | Whitehorse Ledge: Inferno (5.8) – led p1, p3; attempted Hotter Than Hell but went off route (route climbed is waiting for determination) |
| 10/04/08 ~ 10/06/08 | participated in the 3-day Splitter Camp; top-roped and practiced various crack climbing techniques on routes ranging from 5.9-5.12. My instructor: Eric Odenthal |
Gunks, NY
| 09/07/08 | Miss Bailey (3 pitches, 150ft, 5.6+) – led, but didn’t finish p3; Something Interesting (2 pitches, 230 ft, 5.7+); Credibility Gap (2 pitches, 140ft, 5.6) – led. |
| 09/08/08 | Baby (2 pitches, 140 ft, 5.6) – followed; Updraft (2 pitches, 230 ft, 5.5) – led |
| 09/10/08 | Erect Direction Pitch One (80ft, 5.8) – followed; Moonlight (2 pitches, 230ft, 5.6) – led; Bonnie’s Roof (2 pitches, 5.9) – followed; Ursula (2 pitches, 180 ft, 5.5) – led |
Index, Washington
| 08/26/08 | The Country: Ultrabrutal (5.7) – led; Great Northern Slab: Aries (5.8+) – led a 5.8 offset crack and a 5.8 undercling traverse (poorly); Roger’s Corner (5.9) – led p1 (5.7) |
| 08/13/08 | followed 2 ascents: The first one, Taurus, consists of a 5.8 offset crack, a 5.9 overhanging offset crack (aided), and a 5.7. (in the middle of the route, lowered down and did a 5.8 flaring chimney); The second one consists of a long 5.8 undercling traverse pitch and a 5.7 arete |
North Cascades, Washington
| 07/22/08 | variation of Southwest Rib route of South Early Winter Spire (5.10+) – swapping leads; alpine route |
Exit 38 Climbing Area, Washington
| 07/16/08 | followed three 5.9 bolted routes |
| 07/17/08 | sport climbing: led a 5.7 traverse, a 2-pitch 5.8, a single-pitch 5.9; followed a 5.10b; led Ellie’s Sweet Kiss (5.10a) – first on-sight lead at this rating |
| 07/18/08 | Infinite Bliss: followed p1-p14 and bailed because of weather |
Squamish BC Canada (instructing YBOYS Advanced Climbing Trip July 2nd-15th)
| 07/03/08 | Murrin Park, Sugarloaf: Power Smart (5.8) – top-roped; Block and Tackle: Holiday in Cambodia (5.8) – led |
| 07/04/08 | Smoke Bluffs, Burgers and Fries: Top-roped: Catchme (5.10a); Catchme Quicker (5.10b); Over Forty (5.11a); Move it over (5.9) |
| 07/06/08 | Smoke Bluffs, Fern Gully: Top-roped: Tools of Moss Destruction (5.11b); Rampage (5.9); Smoke Bluffs, Crag X: Payanoia (5.9) – led but gave up right before slabby arete; Out to Lunge (5.10a) – followed, unclipping instead of cleaning pros |
| 07/07/08 | Smoke Bluffs, Octopus’ Garden: Top-roped: Octopus’ Garden in the Shade (5.8); Root Canal (5.8); Edible Panties (5.9) |
| 07/09/08 | Huckleberry Pluck (5.9; bolted) – led 3 times |
| 07/10/08 | Smoke Bluffs, Neat and Cool: Sally Five Fingers (5.8) – led; Cat Crack (5.7) – top-roped; Apron: Diedre (5.8) – led p2, p4, p6 |
| 07/11/08 | The Upper Malamute: Rosebud (5.8; bolted) – led; Larry (5.9) – top-roped |
| 07/12/08 | Apron: Diedre (5.8) – led all 6 pitches, guided two students to the top |
| 07/14/08 | Smoke Bluffs, Pixie Corner: Pixie Corner (5.8) – led; Top-roped: The Locker (5.7); Joe’s Crack (5.9); Trixie (5.10b); some 5.11a slab (attempted); Smoke Bluff, Ronin’s Corner: Top-roped: Magical Child (5.8); MCM (5.6); a slabby bolted route (5.10a/b) |
Tieton River Rocks, Washington (instructing YBOYS Rock On! Climbing – June 22-27th)
| 06/17/08 | Western Front (5.3); Rough Boys (5.5) – led; Mush Maker (5.7); Double Trouble (5.5) – led; Twin Cracks (5.6) |
| 06/18/08 | Straight Talk (5.10a) |
Local: Pennsylvania & Maryland
| 05/04/08 | Safe Harbor, PA (sport routes): led 4, followed 1. Rating 5.8/5.9 |
| 05/06/08 | Rocks State Park, MD (top rope): did 5 climbs, rating 5.9 and below |
Boulder, Colorado
| 04/25/08 | Flagstaff: Bouldering – Three of a kind rock; Monkey Traverse etc |
| 04/29/08 | Eldorado Canyon State Park: Yellow Spur (5.9) – followed p1; The Bastille Crack p1 (5.7) – top-roped; The Bastille Crack p1 variation (5.10c) – top-roped |
Red Rock Canyon
| 03/29/08 | Hop Route Direct (5.8) – led p1 (5.8); Chrysler Crack (5.9) top-roped |
| 03/30/08 | Cookie Monster p1 (5.6) – led p1 [bailed] |
| 03/31/08 | Crimson Chrysalis p1-p3 (5.8+) – led p1 (5.7), p3 (5.8+) [bailed] |
| 04/03/08 | Beulah’s Book (5.7 variation); Solar Slab (followed 5.9 finger crack var) |
| 04/04/08 | Mount Wilson Attempt – Sentimental Journal (5.9) – followed p1 [bailed] |
| 04/05/08 | Lotta Balls (5.8) – led p1, p2, p4 |
| 04/08/08 | Olive Oil (5.7) – led p1, p3, p5 |
| 04/09/08 | Birdland (5.7+) – led p1, p3, p5 |
| 04/10/08 | Dark Shadows (5.8) – led p3; Chasing Shadows (5.8+) – led p4 |
| 04/16/08 | Tunnel Vision (5.7) – led p1, p3, p5 |
| 04/17/08 | Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) – led p2, p4, p6, p8, p9 |
| 04/18/08 | Ragged Edges (5.8) – led p1 |
| 04/19/08 | Pink Tornado Left (5.9) – followed |
| 04/20/08 | Black Magic (5.8) – led p1, p3 |
Red Rock Canyon
| 12/30/07 | Great Red Book Area: Sport led Dangling Participles (5.8); Subject-Verb Agreement (5.8) |
| 12/31/07 | Calico Basin: led Soupy Sales (5.7-) |
| 01/01/08 | Mescalito: Black Widow Hollow (5.9) [bailed] |
| 01/02/08 | Magic Bus: led Zipperhead (5.8) mixed; Technicolor Sunrise (5.8) sport; Ken Queasy (5.8 R) mixed; Neon Sunset (5.8) sport |
| 01/03/08 | Mescalito: Cat in the Hat (5.6) – led p1, p3, p4 |
| 01/04/08 | Ultraman Wall: led Clutch Cargo (5.7) sport; Ultraman (5.8+) sport |
| 01/07/08 | Ultraman Wall: Scent of an Ultraman (5.7) sport – led; Godzilla (5.8+) sport – followed; Speed Racer (5.8+) mixed – led |
| 01/08/08 | Brass Wall: Varnishing Point (5.8+) – led p2 (5.8+) |
| 01/09/08 | Jackrabbit: Geronimo (5.6) – led p1, p3 (5.7var) |
| 01/10/08 | Solar Slab Wall: Johnny Vegas (5.6 R) – led p1, p3 |
| 01/11/08 | Panty Wall: sport led Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job (5.8); Boxer Rebellion (5.8); Brief Encounter (5.8) |
Yosemite Valley
| 10/13/07 | Swan Slab: Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) – led; Penelope’s Problem (5.7) – led; Top-roped: Unnamed Crack (5.9); Grant’s Crack (5.9); Unnamed Thin Crack (5.10a) |
| 10/14/07 | Munginella (5.6) – led p1, p3; Jamcrack (5.9) – led p1 (5.7) |
| 10/15/07 | Snake Dike (5.7) – led p1, p4, p6; and some 4th class; reached the summit of Half Dome |
| 10/17/07 | Little John, Right p1 (5.8) – led; Sacherer Cracker p1 (5.7) – led |
| 10/18/07 | Royal Arches (15-pitches; 5.7 A0) – led p2, p6, p8, p10, p12, p13, p15 |
| 10/19/07 | After Six (6-pitches; 5.7) – led p1, p3, p5 |
| 10/20/07 | Top-roped: Doggie Do (5.10a OW) |
Gunks, New York
| 09/16/07 | Arch (5.5) – led p1, p2 (5.4 variation); Bloody Bush (5.5) – led p1 |
| 09/17/07 | Horseman (5.5) – led; Rhododendron (5.6) – led |
| 10/06/07 | Frog’s Head (5.5) – led p2 |
| 10/08/07 | Jackie (5.5) – followed p1; Classics (5.7) – followed p1; RMC (5.4) – led p1; Betty (5.3) – led p1; Raubenheimer Special (5.7) – followed p1 |
| 10/09/07 | High Exposure (5.6) – led p1 (5.4) |
New River Gorge, Seneca Rocks
| 09/01/07 | New River Gorge Junkyard Wall: Jumpin’ Jack Flash (5.7) – top-roped & mock-led; New Yosemite (5.9) – top-roped; The Distortionist (5.6) – led; Team Jesus (5.10b) – top-roped |
| 09/02/07 | New River Gorge Dog Wall: Poodle with a Mohawk (5.1) – led; Themetime (5.6) – led first 2/3 |
| 09/03/07 | Seneca Rocks Lower Slabs: R2D2 (5.5) – led; Scuttle (5.7) – led |