ClimbLog

Taiwan
08/16/2010 – 8/30/2010 – Guiding a rock climbing and cultural experience trip at Long Dong, Taiwan (台灣龍洞)

Squamish BC Canada
08/02/2010 – 08/07/2010 – Guiding a rock climbing trip for BOLD Mountain School

Mt Erie, Washington
07/27/2010 – 07/29/2010 – Guiding a rock climbing trip for Passages Northwest

Pacific Northwest
06/01/2010 – Index (Libra’s Crack); 06/03/2010 – Vantage (Sunshine wall); 06/07/2010 – Leavenworth (hobo gulch); 06/08/2010 – Index (Roger’s Corner & Princely Ambitions); 06/18/2010 – Index (Godzilla, Quarry’s Crack, p1 of Japanese Garden, Roger’s Corner, Breakfast of Champions); 06/19/2010 – Leavenworth (J Y Crag)
07/22/2010 – 07/25/2010 – Squamish (Jungle Warfare 5.10a @ the Squaw, Hairpin 5.10a @ the Papoose, and some cragging)

City of Rocks, Idaho – instructing a 8-day climbing camp from 5/21-28 for Bush School based in Seattle

Smith Rocks, Oregon – instructing a 6-day climbing camp from 5/09-14 for Bush School based in Seattle

Leavenworth Washington
date: 05/06/10, area: Duty Dome, Off Duty Area
routes: Off Duty area
The Slap 5.9; Off Duty 5.10A; Peckin Time 5.7 as p1 then A Shade of Jade 5.10D as p2; Aquamarine 5.9, 5.10A; Straight Street 5.9, 5.8; Heart of Gold 5.8, 5.6, 5.10A, 5.10A

French Coulee (Vantage), Washington – instructing a 4-day climbing camp from 4/29 – 5/2 for Passages/BOLD joint program

Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Time: April 2010
Routes climbed:
bushwhack crack (5.8, led); beckey’s wall (5.7, led); satan’s corner (5.8, led); gordon’s hangover (5.9+, followed); wheels on fire (5.9, followed); mexican crack (5.10a, followed); the coffin (5.9; followed); the viewing (5.10a, TR)

Moab Utah & Independence Monument Colorado
Time: late March, 2010.
Routes climbed (led every pitch):
1. Stolen Chinmey route of Corkscrew Summit of Ancient Art
2. Otto’s route of Independence Monument
3. North Chimney route of Castleton Tower
4. Cragging one day @ Ice Cream Parlor
Photos by David E Anderson: http://gallery.me.com/kondus#100527

Cochise Arizona
first 4 pitches of Ewephoria and finished on Too Tough to Die

Joshua Tree National Park, California
instructed a rock climbing course from 2/4-12 for Bush School Seattle

China
climbed some sport crags at Yangshuo, Fumin, Dali, and, Nanning China

Red Rock Canyon, Nevada

10/25/09 Armatron p1-p4 (led p2&p4), Rapped down and did the arete pitch of Requiem for a Tadpole
10/26/09 A Cold Day in September
10/31/09 Black Orpheus (swapped leads, led the 5.9 and Salz led the 5.10a)
11/01/09 Community Pillar (swapped leads)
11/03/09 Dream of Wild Turkeys (swapped leads)
11/05/09 Epinephrine (swapped leads and led the MONEY pitch!!)

Joshua Tree, California (if not noted otherwise, the route is led onsight)

10/14/09 Headstone Rock: SW Corner (5.6); Cryptic (5.8); Saddle Rocks Area: Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+; 2 pitches)
10/15/09 The Old Woman: Dandelion (5.10a, “take” 2-3 times); Toe Jam (5.7); Chimney Rock: The Flue (5.8); Some bolted line between Flue Right & Raven’s Reach (TR, aided one move)
10/16/09 Hidden Tower: Wild Wind (5.9; TR); Sail Away (5.8-); Hemingway Buttress: White Lightning (5.7); Poodles Are People Too (5.10b; TR, shipped off 2-3 times); Dung Fu (5.7)
10/17/09 Lost Horse Area: Double Dogleg (5.7); Beck’s Bet (5.8); Euthyphro (5.9; TR); Split Personality (5.9; first attempt of JTree 5.9; “take” once after the traverse); Rock Candy (5.9; TR); Spitwad (5.10a; not as hard as the grade describes?)
10/19/09 Indian Cove Area: Driving Limitations (5.8); We Dive at Dawn (5.8); Ancient Kingdom: climbed something random which doesn’t seem to be on the guidebook
10/20/09 Old Woman: Double Cross (5.7+); Hands Off (5.8); Pope’s Crack (5.9; first onsight 5.9 at JTree); Stichter Quits (5.7; followed)
10/21/09 Echo Rock Area: Flake and Bake (5.8; pink-pointed); Touch and Go (5.9; on lead fell once; TR clean); Split Rocks Area: Invisibility Lessons (5.9; 2nd onsight 5.9 at JTree); Continuum (5.8+)

House Range, Utah
worked as an instructor for a NOLS rock climbing camp (one section of a semester course) from 09/16/09 ~ 10/08/09

Grand Teton, Wyoming
Guided two people up the top of Grand Teton thru Owen-Spaulding Route, summit day: 09/06/09

Mazama Washington Area

09/01/09 Cragging Day at Mazama
09/02/09 Liberty Bell thru the Becky Route (5.6)

Squamish BC Canada

08/28/09 Cragging Day. Routes climbed include Mosquito and a couple other cracks
08/29/09 Calculus Crack and another TR
08/30/09 Rock On (led p1&p3; 5.8 and 5.9 respectively

Index Washington (6/16/09, 07/02/09, & 8/24/09) Routes climbed: EM, Rattle’s Tale, Toxic Shock, Roger’s Corner, Breakfast of Champion etc.

Squamish BC Canada (7/07/09 ~ 07/19/09: instructing a 13-day rock climbing course for BOLD Mountain School)

Smith Rocks, Oregon (6/22/09 ~ 06/28/09: instructing a week-long rock climbing course for Passages Northwest)

Leavenworth Washington

05/15/09 Castle Rock: Midway (5.5; led p1); Saber (5.5; led p1 & later p2 after p1 of Canary); Canary Pitch One (led; fell)
05/16/09 Fish Wall @ Duty Dome: Crab Cakes (5.8+; led & lap); Virgin Sturgeon (5.8+; led & lap); Sardine Routine (5.9; led & lap); Keen Acres: Kilt Twister (5.8; led); Keen Acres (5.9+; led and TR); Animal Farm (5.8; led)
05/17/09 Pearly Gates: No Room for Squares (5.8; led & lap); Lost Souls (5.9; attempted leading twice, fell; TR once); Cloud Nine (5.9+; led with undercling start; lap); Easy Pickins (5.10a; TR; difficult)
05/18/09 Castle Rock: Canary (attempted p1; led p3)

Smith Rocks, Oregon (5/02/09 ~ 05/08/09: instructing a week-long rock climbing course for Bush School, a private school based in Seattle)

Red Rocks, Nevada

04/23/09 Fun and Games (5.8; 180 feet; led)
04/24/09 Hot Flash (5.8; 1280 feet; swap leads)
04/25/09 Purblind Pillar (5.8; 950 feet; swap leads)
04/26/09 Ginger Cracks (5.9; 930 feet; led)
04/27/09 Valentines Day (5.8+; led); Muckraker (5.8; led); Fleet Street (5.8; TR)
04/29/09 Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+; 940 feet; led; went off route p3 & p4 came back on route at the start of p5)
04/30/09 Healy’s Haunted House (5.8; 645 feet; led)

Yosemite Valley

03/19/09 Manure Pile Buttress: C.S. Concerto (led the 5.8 pitch); Just Do-do It (top-roped)
03/20/09 The Surprise (5.10a): led p2, p3 (5.8), p5

Cochise Stronghold, Arizona

02/09/09 ~ 02/19/09 NOLS Rock Climbing Seminar which covers institutional climbing teaching discipline and philosophy, top-rope site management, guiding multi-pitch climbs, self rescues etc.

Yangshuo (陽朔) China (unless noted otherwise, it’s a led sport route)

11/20/08 BabyFrog Buttress 蝌蚪山: Frogmarch (4+;5.8); Liar (5;5.9); Fruit Flavoured Frogs (4+;5.8); Toad in the Hole (5;5.9); Rolling Stone (5+;5.10a)
11/22/08 Thumb Peak 拇指峰: Happy New Year (5.10b) – sport multi-pitch – led p2 (5.8), p5 (5.10b)
11/24/08 The Egg 雞蛋山: Chocolate Milk Crack (5.9); Cover Boy Meets Mr. Hilti (5.9); The Deviant Direct (3-pitch; 5.9; swap leads); Absent Friends (5.9); Alice in Wonderland (5.7/5.8)
11/25/08 Banyan Tree 大榕樹: Lounging Lizards (5.8); Beautiful Day (5.10a/b); Happy Hour (5.10b; top-roped); Bamboo Grove 竹林岩: Pickpocket (5.9+); Red River (5.8)
11/26/08 Wine Bottle 酒瓶山: Tianjin Special (5.8); Selfish (5.9); Shu Ba Jie (5.10a); The Miracle of Lankou (5.9, 26m); Summit No. 1 (5.9, 21m); Watered Whine (5.8); Irresistible (5.8); Pitch one of The Red Wall (5.10a, followed); Pitch two of an unnamed route (5.9+)
11/27/08 Twin Gate Mountain 同門山: Penthouse Platforms (3-pitches – 5.10a. 5.8, 5.8; led and linked p2, p3); Da Pi Gu (5.9); Pitch one of Kin Jiang Black (5.10b, top-roped)
11/29/08 Low Mountain 矮山: L’Echo des Montagnes (5 pitches, 5.8; swap leads); Pitch one of The Monkey King (5.10a); Flake Out (6a+; 5.10c); The Pig Emperor (6b+; 5.11a; try to top-rope it but gave up); Lazy Days (5.9)
12/01/08 The Egg: Straw Noise Sheep Ernie (5.10b); All the King’s Horses (5.9, 27m); Rooster Booster (5.10a, 31m)
12/02/08 Treasure Cave 穿岩藏洞: Adventure Race Groupies (5.9); Where’s My Tyrolean? (5+; 5.9+); Unnamed (6b?; 5.10+?; top-roped); Losing Face (6a; 5.10b); Sai Yan / Seyon (5+;5.10a, 25m)
12/03/08 Space Buttress 太空站: Aliens in Yangshuo (5;5.9); Klingon (6a; 5.10b, 25m); Dark Star (2 pitches, 5.10a & 5.10b, led and linked 2 pitches, ~ 40m); The Milky Way (5; 5.9)
12/05/08 Wine Bottle: The Helsinki Handsaw Massacre (6a+; 5.10c; top-roped); Slack (6a; 5.10b); Where’s the Jug? (6b+; 5.11a; top-roped twice)
12/07/08 BabyFrog Buttress: ShaZi (6a+; 5.10c); Frogs Traverse (6a; 5.10c); Kermit (6a; 5.10a/b)
12/08/08 White Mountain 白山: The Stone Dog (5.10c; top-roped); Face Route (6b+; 5.11a; top-roped); The Comedians (6a+; 5.10c; top-roped)
12/10/08 The Screaming Mountain Turtle: The Screaming Mountain Turtle (5 pitches, 5.9; swap leads); Butterfly Spring 蝴蝶泉: name? (5.9)
12/11/08 Brave New World 新世界: The Witch Woman of the Rock (5 pitches, 5.10c; led p2 (5.10b, first onsight trad lead at this grade), attempted p5 (5.10c) but bailed on a threaded sling
12/13/08 The Egg: Crispy (5.9); Straw Noise Sheep Ernie (5.10b; top-roped); Pitch one of Eggstatic (5.11a; top-roped); Duck (6c; 5.11b; top-roped); Sha Bi Ab Bi (5+; 5.10a; top-roped)

Mount Washington Valley, New Hampshire

10/14/08 Cathedral Ledge: Thin Air (5.6); Standard Route with Toe Crack (5.7) var and an airy 5.4 traverse – swap leads; Pine Tree Element (5.8) – led
10/15/08 Whitehorse Ledge: Sliding Board (5.7R) – swap leads; (led the crux pitch)
10/17/08 Whitehorse Ledge: Inferno (5.8) – led p1, p3; attempted Hotter Than Hell but went off route (route climbed is waiting for determination)

Indian Creek, Utah

10/04/08 ~ 10/06/08 participated in the 3-day Splitter Camp; top-roped and practiced various crack climbing techniques on routes ranging from 5.9-5.12. My instructor: Eric Odenthal

Gunks, NY

09/07/08 Miss Bailey (3 pitches, 150ft, 5.6+) – led, but didn’t finish p3; Something Interesting (2 pitches, 230 ft, 5.7+); Credibility Gap (2 pitches, 140ft, 5.6) – led.
09/08/08 Baby (2 pitches, 140 ft, 5.6) – followed; Updraft (2 pitches, 230 ft, 5.5) – led
09/10/08 Erect Direction Pitch One (80ft, 5.8) – followed; Moonlight (2 pitches, 230ft, 5.6) – led; Bonnie’s Roof (2 pitches, 5.9) – followed; Ursula (2 pitches, 180 ft, 5.5) – led

Index, Washington

08/26/08 The Country: Ultrabrutal (5.7) – led; Great Northern Slab: Aries (5.8+) – led a 5.8 offset crack and a 5.8 undercling traverse (poorly); Roger’s Corner (5.9) – led p1 (5.7)
08/13/08 followed 2 ascents: The first one, Taurus, consists of a 5.8 offset crack, a 5.9 overhanging offset crack (aided), and a 5.7. (in the middle of the route, lowered down and did a 5.8 flaring chimney); The second one consists of a long 5.8 undercling traverse pitch and a 5.7 arete

North Cascades, Washington

07/22/08 variation of Southwest Rib route of South Early Winter Spire (5.10+) – swapping leads; alpine route

Exit 38 Climbing Area, Washington

07/16/08 followed three 5.9 bolted routes
07/17/08 sport climbing: led a 5.7 traverse, a 2-pitch 5.8, a single-pitch 5.9; followed a 5.10b; led Ellie’s Sweet Kiss (5.10a) – first on-sight lead at this rating
07/18/08 Infinite Bliss: followed p1-p14 and bailed because of weather

Squamish BC Canada (instructing YBOYS Advanced Climbing Trip July 2nd-15th)

07/03/08 Murrin Park, Sugarloaf: Power Smart (5.8) – top-roped; Block and Tackle: Holiday in Cambodia (5.8) – led
07/04/08 Smoke Bluffs, Burgers and Fries: Top-roped: Catchme (5.10a); Catchme Quicker (5.10b); Over Forty (5.11a); Move it over (5.9)
07/06/08 Smoke Bluffs, Fern Gully: Top-roped: Tools of Moss Destruction (5.11b); Rampage (5.9); Smoke Bluffs, Crag X: Payanoia (5.9) – led but gave up right before slabby arete; Out to Lunge (5.10a) – followed, unclipping instead of cleaning pros
07/07/08 Smoke Bluffs, Octopus’ Garden: Top-roped: Octopus’ Garden in the Shade (5.8); Root Canal (5.8); Edible Panties (5.9)
07/09/08 Huckleberry Pluck (5.9; bolted) – led 3 times
07/10/08 Smoke Bluffs, Neat and Cool: Sally Five Fingers (5.8) – led; Cat Crack (5.7) – top-roped; Apron: Diedre (5.8) – led p2, p4, p6
07/11/08 The Upper Malamute: Rosebud (5.8; bolted) – led; Larry (5.9) – top-roped
07/12/08 Apron: Diedre (5.8) – led all 6 pitches, guided two students to the top
07/14/08 Smoke Bluffs, Pixie Corner: Pixie Corner (5.8) – led; Top-roped: The Locker (5.7); Joe’s Crack (5.9); Trixie (5.10b); some 5.11a slab (attempted); Smoke Bluff, Ronin’s Corner: Top-roped: Magical Child (5.8); MCM (5.6); a slabby bolted route (5.10a/b)

Tieton River Rocks, Washington (instructing YBOYS Rock On! Climbing – June 22-27th)

06/17/08 Western Front (5.3); Rough Boys (5.5) – led; Mush Maker (5.7); Double Trouble (5.5) – led; Twin Cracks (5.6)
06/18/08 Straight Talk (5.10a)

Local: Pennsylvania & Maryland

05/04/08 Safe Harbor, PA (sport routes): led 4, followed 1. Rating 5.8/5.9
05/06/08 Rocks State Park, MD (top rope): did 5 climbs, rating 5.9 and below

Boulder, Colorado

04/25/08 Flagstaff: Bouldering – Three of a kind rock; Monkey Traverse etc
04/29/08 Eldorado Canyon State Park: Yellow Spur (5.9) – followed p1; The Bastille Crack p1 (5.7) – top-roped; The Bastille Crack p1 variation (5.10c) – top-roped

Red Rock Canyon

03/29/08 Hop Route Direct (5.8) – led p1 (5.8); Chrysler Crack (5.9) top-roped
03/30/08 Cookie Monster p1 (5.6) – led p1 [bailed]
03/31/08 Crimson Chrysalis p1-p3 (5.8+) – led p1 (5.7), p3 (5.8+) [bailed]
04/03/08 Beulah’s Book (5.7 variation); Solar Slab (followed 5.9 finger crack var)
04/04/08 Mount Wilson Attempt – Sentimental Journal (5.9) – followed p1 [bailed]
04/05/08 Lotta Balls (5.8) – led p1, p2, p4
04/08/08 Olive Oil (5.7) – led p1, p3, p5
04/09/08 Birdland (5.7+) – led p1, p3, p5
04/10/08 Dark Shadows (5.8) – led p3; Chasing Shadows (5.8+) – led p4
04/16/08 Tunnel Vision (5.7) – led p1, p3, p5
04/17/08 Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) – led p2, p4, p6, p8, p9
04/18/08 Ragged Edges (5.8) – led p1
04/19/08 Pink Tornado Left (5.9) – followed
04/20/08 Black Magic (5.8) – led p1, p3

Red Rock Canyon

12/30/07 Great Red Book Area: Sport led Dangling Participles (5.8); Subject-Verb Agreement (5.8)
12/31/07 Calico Basin: led Soupy Sales (5.7-)
01/01/08 Mescalito: Black Widow Hollow (5.9) [bailed]
01/02/08 Magic Bus: led Zipperhead (5.8) mixed; Technicolor Sunrise (5.8) sport; Ken Queasy (5.8 R) mixed; Neon Sunset (5.8) sport
01/03/08 Mescalito: Cat in the Hat (5.6) – led p1, p3, p4
01/04/08 Ultraman Wall: led Clutch Cargo (5.7) sport; Ultraman (5.8+) sport
01/07/08 Ultraman Wall: Scent of an Ultraman (5.7) sport – led; Godzilla (5.8+) sport – followed; Speed Racer (5.8+) mixed – led
01/08/08 Brass Wall: Varnishing Point (5.8+) – led p2 (5.8+)
01/09/08 Jackrabbit: Geronimo (5.6) – led p1, p3 (5.7var)
01/10/08 Solar Slab Wall: Johnny Vegas (5.6 R) – led p1, p3
01/11/08 Panty Wall: sport led Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job (5.8); Boxer Rebellion (5.8); Brief Encounter (5.8)

Yosemite Valley

10/13/07 Swan Slab: Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) – led; Penelope’s Problem (5.7) – led; Top-roped: Unnamed Crack (5.9); Grant’s Crack (5.9); Unnamed Thin Crack (5.10a)
10/14/07 Munginella (5.6) – led p1, p3; Jamcrack (5.9) – led p1 (5.7)
10/15/07 Snake Dike (5.7) – led p1, p4, p6; and some 4th class; reached the summit of Half Dome
10/17/07 Little John, Right p1 (5.8) – led; Sacherer Cracker p1 (5.7) – led
10/18/07 Royal Arches (15-pitches; 5.7 A0) – led p2, p6, p8, p10, p12, p13, p15
10/19/07 After Six (6-pitches; 5.7) – led p1, p3, p5
10/20/07 Top-roped: Doggie Do (5.10a OW)

Gunks, New York

09/16/07 Arch (5.5) – led p1, p2 (5.4 variation); Bloody Bush (5.5) – led p1
09/17/07 Horseman (5.5) – led; Rhododendron (5.6) – led
10/06/07 Frog’s Head (5.5) – led p2
10/08/07 Jackie (5.5) – followed p1; Classics (5.7) – followed p1; RMC (5.4) – led p1; Betty (5.3) – led p1; Raubenheimer Special (5.7) – followed p1
10/09/07 High Exposure (5.6) – led p1 (5.4)

New River Gorge, Seneca Rocks

09/01/07 New River Gorge Junkyard Wall: Jumpin’ Jack Flash (5.7) – top-roped & mock-led; New Yosemite (5.9) – top-roped; The Distortionist (5.6) – led; Team Jesus (5.10b) – top-roped
09/02/07 New River Gorge Dog Wall: Poodle with a Mohawk (5.1) – led; Themetime (5.6) – led first 2/3
09/03/07 Seneca Rocks Lower Slabs: R2D2 (5.5) – led; Scuttle (5.7) – led
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